Neapolis

Just a few years after liberation, and while it had not yet recovered from the destruction it had suffered during the Revolutionary struggle, Athens assumed the role of capital of the newly established state. It had to become a modern city, develop the necessary infrastructure, and construct buildings for the government, health services, and education. The first step was the drafting of an urban plan, undertaken by architects Stamatis Kleanthis and Eduard Schaubert (1833). Opposition from landowners and the state’s inability to cover the costs led to revisions of the plan in the very next few years.

Nevertheless, in the decades that followed, Athens grew, and new buildings—both public structures and private residences—were erected throughout the city. The prevailing architectural style was Neoclassicism, which had already taken hold in Central Europe. Renowned architects, such as the Greek Stamatis Kleanthis, the Danes Theophilos and Christian Hansen, and the German Ernst Ziller, undertook the design of buildings. These included both public buildings and mansions for the wealthy residents of Athens

The intense reconstruction brought craftsmen to the city, mainly from the islands, to work on the projects that were underway. Unable to afford to live in the city center, they built their homes “outside the city limits.” Thus, in the mid-19th century, people from Tinos, Naxos, Karpathos, marble craftsmen, stonemasons, carpenters, and builders created the neighborhood of Neapolis: New Town or “Proastion,” as it was originally known.

Neapolis was a real little village. There were small businesses, houses that were little more than shacks with a small yard, and narrow, irregularly laid-out streets. However, in the 1870s, Neapolis was transformed. The shacks were replaced by single-story homes for the working class and two-story homes for the middle class, which retained neoclassical architectural elements, following the model of the upper-class residences in the city center. Neapolis took on a romantic character. Writers and artists settled there. In particular, students from the provinces who came to Athens to study would rent an inexpensive room in Neapolis, giving the neighborhood a youthful vibe. Theaters and movie theaters, bookstores, cafes, and taverns became places for entertainment, socializing, gatherings, and political and artistic discussions.

Despite the changes that took place in the years that followed, the neighborhood has retained this style and atmosphere. Today, its streets are home to a mosaic of neoclassical buildings, interwar apartment buildings, and newer residences—a mosaic that reflects the nearly one hundred years of Neapolis’s history. The traditional coffeehouses, bookstores, publishing houses, small shops, and both abandoned and renovated 19th-century buildings are the guardians of Neapolis’s history and memory.th αιώνα είναι θεματοφύλακες της ιστορίας και της μνήμης της Νεάπολης.

Mavromichali Street

Mavromichali Street runs through Neapolis, connecting Akadimias Street with Alexandras Avenue. Although it serves as a link between two of Athens’ most central thoroughfares, it remains a quiet street lined with residences and small shops. Here, elegant neoclassical buildings, interwar apartment buildings, and modern structures coexist harmoniously, shaping the distinctive architectural identity of Neapolis and Exarchia.

The street was named in the 1880s as a tribute to the distinguished Mavromichalis family of Mani for their invaluable contribution to the Revolution of 1821.

As the central thoroughfare of the then-burgeoning city of Neapolis, Mavromichali Street was home to prominent figures in literature and the arts. In fact, the great architect Ernst Ziller chose this very street to build his private residence at number 4, a building that today belongs to the Byzantine and Christian Museum. The office of Kostis Palamas was located at the intersection of Akademias and Mavromichali Streets, while the politician Charilaos Trikoupis lived nearby during the final years of his life. Furthermore, the renowned sculptor Giannoulis Halepas lived at number 6 when he settled in Athens, choosing a neighborhood where there was already a community of marble craftsmen from Tinos.

In the early 20th century, the “Palaia Panathinaia” theater and movie theater operated at the intersection with Alexandras Avenue. After it was demolished, the “Nea Panathinaia” movie theater took its place during the interwar period. Its many years of operation were inextricably linked to the history of Athenian entertainment, resulting in the building now being designated as a historic landmark.

A little further down, in the city block bounded by 104 Solonos Street, 30 Charilaou Trikoupi Street, and 17 Mavromichali Street, stands the Old Chemistry Building. This iconic building was completed in 1889 based on designs by Ernst Ziller, marking the beginning of the scientific study of chemistry in Greece. Despite being destroyed by fire in 1911, it was rebuilt and reopened in 1928. Today, it houses the Museum of Natural Sciences and Technology of the University of Athens.

Over the decades, Mavromichali’s identity has been shaped by the people who walked and lived on its sidewalks. From the islanders and artisans who built Athens, to the intellectuals who debated in neoclassical salons, to the students and artists, to the long-time residents who exchange “good morning” greetings at the neighborhood’s small shops. Mavromichali remains a vibrant street where Athens’ past meets everyday life today.

Sources:

Thanasis Giochalas, Tonia Kafetzaki, ATHENS – Exploring the City Through History and Literature, ESTIA Bookstore

www.arxaiologikoktimatologio.gov.gr